Breaking the mold?

I know that MOLD is a four letter word, and only a few other things found during the course of a home inspection causes more angst for all parties involved.

Moldy pooAs inspectors, not only are we the ones that have to bring its presence to the attention of the buyers, but we also have to figure out some way to talk about it in the Inspection Report.

In spite of the fact that if:

it “looks” like mold,

is “wet” like mold,

conditions are “conducive” to mold,

it “smells” like mold,

it is “apparent” on surfaces that molds love,

and it “barks” like mold—-most inspectors are still reluctant to call it “MOLD.”  I am not sure exactly why this is the case—-I guess due to the possibility that it might be some other sort of staining or condition that is not “actually” mold.  And, I could see where that would be a problem if the inspector tells you that you have a huge mold problem and it turns out to be smoke from candles or road dirt being sucked into the house at the edges of the carpeting.

In general, knowing whether a particular fungal growth is actually mold or some other type of fungal growth, is not really all that important since the solution is pretty much going to be the same—-fix the water issue and remove/replace/clean the affected materials as necessary.

To give you an example of how difficult it can be to “language” the presence of mold, take a look at the following picture.

Mold covered roof boards

Mold or mold-like fungal growth on roof boards

The white color on these roof boards is a light covering of mold or mold/like fungal growth.  What do I tell my buyer?  It is obvious that it a past condition because the newer roof sheathing showing between the white boards is unaffected.  This is consistent with there being no growth since the sheathing was installed.  The roof was replaced at least 10 years previously as indicated by the overall condition of the roof shingles.

There can be many reasons why this is no longer a problem and at the time of inspection the inspector may not be able to figure out all the “why’s,” and that is not as important as knowing that there hasn’t been a problem since the roof was replaced.  Perhaps the dryer used to vent into the attic.  Perhaps there were no vents in the roof previously.  Perhaps the roof no longer leaks.  Perhaps there had been flooding in the crawl space that had been fixed.  Who knows?

So again what do I say to the buyer?  They want to know if it is a problem now—-whether it is “dormant” or not—-because after all—-it is still present.  Aren’t those tiny little spores going to find their way into the home and ruin their lives?  No inspector can answer that question—-because everyone responds to mold spores differently and there are lots of other variables—-both physical and psychological.  Even Environmental Hygienists can’t really answer that question—-but the lowly home inspector is expected to answer the question regardless.

I can tell the buyer that if moisture conditions are right the mold growth can come back to life.  I can tell them that there are circumstances where the mold will release spores whether dormant or not.  I can tell them that the likelihood of the spores finding there way into the indoor environment is not great—but could happen under some scenarios.  I can recommend that they not store things in the attic.  I can recommend cleaning and sealing of the affected areas by qualified persons.  I could recommend that they run like hell and never look back (personally I wouldn’t do that—-but some inspectors might).  I could recommend further testing so that the testing company could tell them to fix the water issue and clean and seal the affected areas.

Ultimately it is the buyer that will have to decide what is important to them, and how or whether they want to deal with the issue.

It really is not much help that there is so much conflicting, misleading and downright erroneous information present on the web and in the media about molds in the environment.  It lends itself to a lot of hysteria, and where you have hysteria you have a growing industry that is just as virulent as the mold spores themselves.  What will create peace of mind in one buyer may not work at all for another.

Another factor is that the buyer may not care about it and be willing to accept the Eighth Dwarf—Mouldy—-sleeping quietly in the attic, but they may worry about what will happen when they go to sell the home.  What if they cannot find a buyer that feels the same way about their old friend “Mouldy” that they do.  They want to avoid feeling like “Dopy.”  In other words will this stuff that doesn’t matter to them affect the resale value of the house regardless?

Some people feel it is wise to simply have the condition professionally cleaned and sealed.  From a marketing stand point this may make sense, even if it likely has little do do with health and safety.  It is sort of how a band-aid can make a child feel better even when they aren’t really injured.

I wish there was an easy answer to the question—-heck I would accept an easy question for the answer!  I seriously recommend that before anyone goes too far down the road of trying to answer this question, that they carefully read the work of Caoimhín P. Connell, Health Effects of Moulds (Molds): State of Knowledge.

If nothing else—he does serious damage to the hysteria surrounding Mold—-breaking the mold.

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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Treading water and other versions of holding ones breath.

One of Bill Cosby’s most famous stand-up comedy acts was called “Noah.”  I used to have it on a record (you remember—those things that go around and around).  I am not going to recite the whole monologue here, and if you want to hear it you can find it here: Noah. It is a little long—but funny as all get out.

Noah is busily building the Ark and his neighbor comes over and wants the pile of wood out of his driveway so that he can go to work.  Noah is being secretive and won’t tell him what he is building and the neighbor wants to know if Noah can at least give him a hint.  Noah says, “You want a hint?  I’ll give you a hint—-how long—can you tread water?”

This brings me today’s post about hydraulic jacks.  While the connection between Noah and hydraulic jacks may be hard to imagine, I promise there is a connection—-of sorts.  You see, hydraulic jacks work on the principle that when you pump them up, oil is pumped into a cylinder under the piston through a one way valve which causes the piston to move up and be “uplifting.”  Now—as long as that one way valve does not leak, whatever you lifted will stay lifted.  If the valve starts to leak—–things can tumble down or at least get all cattywampus.

A while back, in one of my many crawl space adventures, there were five of these jacks holding up the house so that a new foundation could be poured under one side of the home.  It had been this way for several years—-symbolic of someone’s dream gone awry—or at least out of money.  These five jacks have been “treading water” pretty well, for a long time—-how much longer is anyone’s guess.

Someone doesn't know jack

Someone doesn't know jack

All bets are off when all the beasts of the world—-two of a kind—-both male and female, start to party in the house.

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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Siding too close to the ground—it’s vinyl—isn’t that “final?”

Siding materials need proper clearances between finish grade and the siding—regardless the type of siding.

This requirement is not just to prevent damage to the siding—–it serves a couple of other functions as well.  Maintaining proper clearances reduces access to wood structures behind the siding by wood destroying insects or damage from water that might find its way behind the siding.

It allows for inspection of the area.  In other words inspectors can see what type of foundation is there, whether flashings are there and whether insects are moving into the structure behind the siding.

It is likely that in all parts of the country there is some reason to follow these principles—-not just the wet North West—and this is reflected in the building codes.

I have had builders tell me that if the siding can’t be damaged by water, that there is no problem with bringing the siding right down to the ground.  While it is possible to design a wall cladding that could get away with this approach—–as a general rule it is not a good idea, and proper clearances are required.  At an inspection a while ago,  I was fortunate to get perhaps the most perfect example of why the builder’s logic is not sound.

Take a look at the concrete patio in the following picture.  Notice how the patio is poured right up to the house and the siding comes right down to the patio.  This in vinyl siding and is in no danger of being damaged by water.  However, as an inspector I can not tell what is behind this connection.  Flashings? Concrete? Treated wood?  Untreated wood?

The point is—-who knows?

Vinyl siding---and what is it hiding?

Vinyl siding---and what is it hiding?

Of course sliding my knife under the siding at the concrete I didn’t hit anything.  Whoops—this is not going to be good, I thought to myself.

This next picture was taken in the crawl space.  The entire rim joist was bug infested and rotted away over the whole length of the patio connection with the house.

The vinyl siding shows on the inside of the crawl space as well

The vinyl siding---as seen from inside the crawl space

The grey color visible in the picture is the back side of the vinyl siding.

Maintaining good clearances between finish-grade and siding materials of all kinds is crucial to preventing this kind of damage.  In most cases it doesn’t make any difference whether the siding is wood, vinyl, aluminum, stucco or brick.

Of course, creating proper clearances may require creating proper foundations first.

 

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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What is the “actual” water temperature in my home really?

The post previous to this was about water heater Deadband.  This post is related in that it shows us another way that deadband affects use of hot water and the safety concerns posed by deadband.

Very high water temperature

Very high water temperature

How difficult can it be to figure out what the water temperature in a home is?

In the State of Washington, Licensed Home Inspectors are required to report when the water temperature is above 120 degrees and then advise the client that the recommended high temperature is 120 degrees Fahrenheit.

What I have found, over and over again, is that if I take the temperature reading at the kitchen—-where I start my inspections—it might read 118 degrees F and falsely be led to think that the temperature is OK.

Because most kitchens have mixing valves, I know that sometimes the temperature might actually be a little higher than that—so I know I am going to check it somewhere else too.

After the kitchen, the next part of the inspection usually moves to the highest level of the home.  The idea is that you want to test all the plumbing from the highest level and then down to the  lowest level so that by the time you get to the crawl space it will be flooded by all the leaking so that you might not even have to do the crawl space.  Of course this is meant tongue-in-cheek—but you get the idea.

Lots of bathrooms—at either the tub or the vanity—may have faucets that are not mixing valves so that it is easier to get an accurate temperature reading at those locations.  That said—lots of newer tub and shower fixtures have mixing valves with anti-scald features which again prevents accurate temperature readings.  Regardless, I usually check the temperatures at this bathroom and the temperatures are usually consistent with the reading (or very close to it) that I got at the kitchen.

By the time I have gone all through the other levels of the home and finally get to the basement (if there is one), I often find the laundry sink which almost always has separate faucets, I know I can get a good temperature reading there.  I take the temperature and all of a sudden it is 130 degrees Fahrenheit.

At first you scratch your head and say, “How can this be?”

The answer is that “time has gone by”—-perhaps an hour or two or three.

When the inspector arrives at the inspection, the water heater has been sitting idle and has been cooling off.  Because there has been no demand for hot water it may have cooled all the way down to its low point—the temperature at which the thermostat would normally kick in and start heating the water.  However, these simple thermostats operate the best with a pronounced change in temperature for them to kick-in.  The temperature of the water might go even below the normal kick-in temperature.  During the normal everyday operation of these thermostats, the temperature differential is likely between 5 and 10 degrees but can vary up to 25 degrees—the difference between whether a baby gets scalded or not.

These swings in temperatures are especially true of vacant homes.

The moral of this story is that it is best protocol to take the water temperature later in the inspection than it is to take it right at the beginning of the inspection—for the most accurate indication of what the temperature actually is.

In the end, it is not difficult to figure out the temperature—but the best protocol must be followed.

 

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

 

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Deadband—what is water heater “deadband?”

If you are thinking that this post is about the Grateful Dead Band, I am sorry to disappoint.  It is  “loosely” about Jack & Jill in the shower—-but not about them being in the shower together—if they showered together this would not happen.

I have done many posts about conditions related to water heaters—this is but another.

This one may be a bit “technical” but it will hopefully help explain a condition that occurs all too often in homes.

Water Heater “DEADBAND”

The question varies, but it usually goes something like this.  Jill asks, “How come some times there seems to be plenty of hot water for both me and Jack to take showers—-and other times there is not?”

Well Jill, it is probably due to “deadband.”  While deadband can be an issue with gas water heaters it is very common with electric water heaters.  You see, the thermostat on your water heater has a range at which it turns itself off and turns itself on (Jill could not help but think about how this might apply to her and Jack in other more interesting ways).  It is this “range” that causes the problem (how true, how true, thinks Jill).  Some water heaters are worse than others (DEFINITELY true, thinks Jill).

Let’s say that Jill starts out with a fully heated water heater at 120 degrees Fahrenheit.  She takes a nice leisurely, relaxing shower and uses most of the hot water—-but not quite enough to get to the low point of the thermostat to make it kick back on to heat more water.  Now Jack comes along an hour later (after the lazy butt sleeps in)—all set to take a nice long hot shower (Jill is thinking cold shower)—-only to run out of hot water as the thermostat finally kicks in to heat more water.

To simplify things, I have drawn a little graph to help visualize the basic concept.

 

Deadband

A visual of how deadband happens

So what is the solution?  There really isn’t one that doesn’t involve keeping the heater at higher than safe, recommended temperatures (120 degrees Fahrenheit).

Keeping the heater at higher temperatures (so that there is more water to dilute) also means that the thermostat’s low range is always going to be higher than what is a satisfactory temperature for a nice long shower.  Installing tanks with more storage capacity is another solution as well.

Perhaps the best solution would be to install what is called a “tempering valve.”  This is a clever device that allows you to have the water heater set at say 130 degrees Fahrenheit and mixes a little cold water into the stream whenever you use hot water so that you don’t ever get more than 120 degree water out of your faucets.  This also protects the heater from the growth of bacteria in the tank that is encouraged or maintained by 120 degree water.

Sounds like Jack will be in plenty of hot water now—no more cold shower treatment.

 

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

 

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