In one ear and out the other—where do the drains drain to?

As a home inspector, the basic rule is:  “document, document, document.”  Even when something seems unimportant or “ancient history” it is important to all parties involved in the transaction to document these past conditions to provide a clear picture of the home.

This is not so much to “project” what is coming down the road but to “document” what has happened so that if it happens again there was at least some warning.

There is just no way around it—some areas may need to be monitored.

Perhaps the basement no longer leaks but the staining all around the paneling indicates that at some point it did.  Perhaps new perimeter drains have been installed—-which might be documented as well—-and flooding is no longer likely.  The staining still should be noted—it may be seasonal in nature—or only happen under very specific conditions.

The following story is an example of this type of documenting.

In the early fall I inspected a home and noted in the crawl space that a new interior drainage system had been installed (which was noted in the report).  Also, at several points around the foundation, there were indications of past moisture intrusion—-as can be seen in the “muddy tan” discolorations in this picture (which was noted in the report).  The rusting form ties visible in the photo on top of the footing are further indications that this area has been wet—also documented in the report.

Looks dry to me

Staining is indicative of past leaking

Whether this happened during construction, after construction, or is ongoing or seasonal is difficult to determine at just one visit to the home.

The hole through the foundation is what we call a gravity drain.  Builders will sometimes install these drains so that prior to building the home the foundation does not become a swimming pool.  These gravity drains can admit lots of water to the crawl space if the exterior ground water is not properly drained away.  In this case a feeble attempt at making a place for any incoming water to go has been installed and connected to newer interior drainage that runs to a sump pump on the other side of the crawl space.

There was a rotted support post, due to past flooding, that needed to be replaced, so I was called back to check the repairs about a month later—-after nearly two weeks of constant rain.  Here is a picture of that same area taken at the time of the re-inspection.

Wet during times of rain

Wet during times of rain

While you can see that the footing is now all wet, you can’t tell from the photo that there is a little river running under the pipe and into the crawl space—-enough water to pretty much require that the poor little sump pump run continuously.

A very curious condition was causing this to happen.  Apparently this gravity drain was tied to the footing drain on the other side of the foundation.  This footing drains run around the home to where it runs out into the back yard “somewhere.”  Well apparently, the drain in the back yard was somehow blocked.  This was evidenced by the fact that whenever the sump pump turned on, water came up out of the ground like a little geyser and flowed on the surface into the back yard.  The sump drain terminated in the underground footing drain and because the drain was not draining to the back yard, the sump water had no place to go except to back up around the perimeter drain around the home.  It was then flowing back through the foundation and into the crawl space.  Round and round she goes, where she stops, nobody knows…

This is a good example of how some defects are just not going to be found during a Standard Home Inspection but by documenting “everything” we can sometimes get hints of issues to come.  In this case the termination of the footing drain had to be repaired to eliminate recycling the ground water back into the crawl space.

***

Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

If you enjoyed this post, and would like to get notices of new posts to my blog, please subscribe via email in the little box to the right. I promise NO spamming of your email :-D

LinkedInShare

Basement Stairwell Lighting

Stairs to basements in older homes are often steep and built to less than satisfactory standards.  It is almost as if they were constructed as an after thought, and were fitted in any way they could.  They often have sharp winding turns, insufficient or missing handrails, low clearances to bang your head on, and insufficient or missing side barriers.  Often these stairs were never meant to be used on a daily basis but merely provided access to the furnace etc.

While these stairs might have been somewhat satisfactory when the only thing down there was the furnace and the water heater, as these basements took on more everyday uses such as laundry rooms, family rooms, and additional bedrooms, these stairs represent an increased safety risk.

Improving these stairs so that they are not so steep and are safe by current standards can be very costly and might even require relocation of the stairs and/or changes in the floor structure.  This is usually not done.

One requirement that becomes necessary as the basement is developed into “living space” is for there to be a light switch at the top and the bottom of the stairs.   This is especially important as a safety “upgrade” if the stairs are themselves to remain dangerous—-and least you will be able to see where you are falling and others will be able to locate you to pick up the pieces.

In older homes, a switch only at the top was quite common.  A home I inspected some time ago used to have a switch located at the top of the stairs but it was abandoned in favor of one located half way down the stairs—-sort of “ideally” wrong for whether you were going up or down the stairs.

Light switch location for basement light

Light switch location for the basement light

Stairs are a complicated component of a home and making them as safe as possible is important.  Having adequate side guards, handrails, headroom and lighting are critical to safe use of the stairs.  Some safety features can be improved on even older stairs that cannot be completely brought up to current standards.

***

Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

If you enjoyed this post, and would like to get notices of new posts to my blog, please subscribe via email in the little box to the right. I promise NO spamming of your email :-D

LinkedInShare

Barriers/guards—when are they strong enough? When are they safe enough?

A while back I inspected a 3 story condo that had a flat roof that was also a walking surface/deck.  Originally this roof deck had nice guard walls all around the roof.

At some point a previous homeowner decided that a hot tub would be a cool addition to the property.  What better place to sit out under the stars on a nice clear night and contemplate ones navel—or one’s tub mate’s navel.

There were many problems with the installation of this tub—including improper installation of the electrical components.  Other “questions” included the questionable stairs to the deck, missing hand rail and whether the roof structure was adequate to support the massive weight of this tub.

barrier around hot tub

Roof top hot tub

I think the thing that made me the most nervous about this installation was the inadequate guard around the walking surface around the tub deck.  This walking surface was at least 28 feet above the ground.  I am used to crawling around at height, and standing next to this railing made me feel “uneasy” to say the least—-and I hadn’t started partying in the hot tub yet—-and was by all accounts sober.

Barrier railing not tall enough

Barrier railings not tall enough or strong enough

And what about the lattice-work? —–everyone knows how strong lattice is!  Proper repairs may be expensive and it may be cheaper to simply remove the tub and return the space to its original use and design.

***

Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

If you enjoyed this post, and would like to get notices of new posts to my blog, please subscribe via email in the little box to the right. I promise NO spamming of your email :-D

LinkedInShare

I have a furnace and water heater I will sell you!

The blue lines I have drawn over the picture below, trace the “high-water lines” from previous flooding of the crawl space.  The interesting thing about this past flooding is that the three “flood lines” that one can see on the furnace indicate that the furnace was not replaced after any of the flooding.  The one blue line on the water heater, which lines up with the middle blue line on the furnace, is consistent with only one flooding of the water heater.

flooded water heater and furnace

High water lines on furnace and water heater

Flooding of the burner components of any gas appliance—-or any appliance not designed to be submerged—-is likely to void the warranty of the unit.

I was so glad the gas was shut off to the building so that I didn’t have to worry about whether they worked or not.  High water lines on gas appliances makes for an easy inspection.  While the HVAC contractor will be called to evaluate the units—replacement is likely the only option.

***

Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

If you enjoyed this post, and would like to get notices of new posts to my blog, please subscribe via email in the little box to the right. I promise NO spamming of your email :-D

LinkedInShare

What the heck is a Bollard?

All a bollard is—-is a post installed next to something you don’t want whacked by something, or something you want to exclude access to. 

Out and about, one can see Bollards next to electrical transformers, gas meters and gas pumps at service stations.  You might also find them in the middle of a road, if the road is not for public use.  The bollard can then be removed to allow authorized vehicles to use the road.  Lots of parks and forest service roads have these kinds of bollards.

Bollard

A bollard protecting a water heater

In homes you will find them primarily in the garage to prevent the furnace and/or water heater from getting hit by vehicles—-as in the picture to the left.

So, how does the inspector inspect these bollards?  A really good test would be to get in the car and give the car a good go at it.  Of course this could have disastrous consequences that would also likely result in the inspector never doing another inspection.

There is actually no really good way to test the effectiveness of a bollard because it is a function of scale.  No bollard can stop a 2000 pound car going 20 miles an hour with no breaks.  In that scenario the water heater is going to eat the car.  I am not sure that the bollard could even stand the same scenario at 10 miles per hour; however, I do think it should be able to withstand a moderate karate kick from a 65 year-old.

Mechanical bolting of bollards

Mechanical bolting of bollards is often inadequate

The one in the picture did not.  One good kick pulled the bolts right out of the concrete.

Mechanical type bolts should never be used to resist “pull-out” type forces.  Epoxy type bolts should be used for this type of installation.  Epoxy bolting will break the floor before it pulls out the bolts.  Some jurisdictions don’t allow bolts but require that the post be imbedded in concrete—-steel pipes filled with concrete.  The nice thing about bolting them is that they can be removed to make replacement of whatever they are protecting easier.

A bollard should not just give the “appearance” of protection—-it must actually perform as intended—-to protect against moderate forces applied to it.

The best solution of all of course is to stay sober, make sure your breaks work and keep the keys away from 6.5 year-olds

***

Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

If you enjoyed this post, and would like to get notices of new posts to my blog, please subscribe via email in the little box to the right. I promise NO spamming of your email :-D

LinkedInShare