Treading water and other versions of holding ones breath.

One of Bill Cosby’s most famous stand-up comedy acts was called “Noah.”  I used to have it on a record (you remember—those things that go around and around).  I am not going to recite the whole monologue here, and if you want to hear it you can find it here: Noah. It is a little long—but funny as all get out.

Noah is busily building the Ark and his neighbor comes over and wants the pile of wood out of his driveway so that he can go to work.  Noah is being secretive and won’t tell him what he is building and the neighbor wants to know if Noah can at least give him a hint.  Noah says, “You want a hint?  I’ll give you a hint—-how long—can you tread water?”

This brings me today’s post about hydraulic jacks.  While the connection between Noah and hydraulic jacks may be hard to imagine, I promise there is a connection—-of sorts.  You see, hydraulic jacks work on the principle that when you pump them up, oil is pumped into a cylinder under the piston through a one way valve which causes the piston to move up and be “uplifting.”  Now—as long as that one way valve does not leak, whatever you lifted will stay lifted.  If the valve starts to leak—–things can tumble down or at least get all cattywampus.

A while back, in one of my many crawl space adventures, there were five of these jacks holding up the house so that a new foundation could be poured under one side of the home.  It had been this way for several years—-symbolic of someone’s dream gone awry—or at least out of money.  These five jacks have been “treading water” pretty well, for a long time—-how much longer is anyone’s guess.

Someone doesn't know jack

Someone doesn't know jack

All bets are off when all the beasts of the world—-two of a kind—-both male and female, start to party in the house.

***

Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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What is the “actual” water temperature in my home really?

The post previous to this was about water heater Deadband.  This post is related in that it shows us another way that deadband affects use of hot water and the safety concerns posed by deadband.

Very high water temperature

Very high water temperature

How difficult can it be to figure out what the water temperature in a home is?

In the State of Washington, Licensed Home Inspectors are required to report when the water temperature is above 120 degrees and then advise the client that the recommended high temperature is 120 degrees Fahrenheit.

What I have found, over and over again, is that if I take the temperature reading at the kitchen—-where I start my inspections—it might read 118 degrees F and falsely be led to think that the temperature is OK.

Because most kitchens have mixing valves, I know that sometimes the temperature might actually be a little higher than that—so I know I am going to check it somewhere else too.

After the kitchen, the next part of the inspection usually moves to the highest level of the home.  The idea is that you want to test all the plumbing from the highest level and then down to the  lowest level so that by the time you get to the crawl space it will be flooded by all the leaking so that you might not even have to do the crawl space.  Of course this is meant tongue-in-cheek—but you get the idea.

Lots of bathrooms—at either the tub or the vanity—may have faucets that are not mixing valves so that it is easier to get an accurate temperature reading at those locations.  That said—lots of newer tub and shower fixtures have mixing valves with anti-scald features which again prevents accurate temperature readings.  Regardless, I usually check the temperatures at this bathroom and the temperatures are usually consistent with the reading (or very close to it) that I got at the kitchen.

By the time I have gone all through the other levels of the home and finally get to the basement (if there is one), I often find the laundry sink which almost always has separate faucets, I know I can get a good temperature reading there.  I take the temperature and all of a sudden it is 130 degrees Fahrenheit.

At first you scratch your head and say, “How can this be?”

The answer is that “time has gone by”—-perhaps an hour or two or three.

When the inspector arrives at the inspection, the water heater has been sitting idle and has been cooling off.  Because there has been no demand for hot water it may have cooled all the way down to its low point—the temperature at which the thermostat would normally kick in and start heating the water.  However, these simple thermostats operate the best with a pronounced change in temperature for them to kick-in.  The temperature of the water might go even below the normal kick-in temperature.  During the normal everyday operation of these thermostats, the temperature differential is likely between 5 and 10 degrees but can vary up to 25 degrees—the difference between whether a baby gets scalded or not.

These swings in temperatures are especially true of vacant homes.

The moral of this story is that it is best protocol to take the water temperature later in the inspection than it is to take it right at the beginning of the inspection—for the most accurate indication of what the temperature actually is.

In the end, it is not difficult to figure out the temperature—but the best protocol must be followed.

 

***

Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

 

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Deadband—what is water heater “deadband?”

If you are thinking that this post is about the Grateful Dead Band, I am sorry to disappoint.  It is  “loosely” about Jack & Jill in the shower—-but not about them being in the shower together—if they showered together this would not happen.

I have done many posts about conditions related to water heaters—this is but another.

This one may be a bit “technical” but it will hopefully help explain a condition that occurs all too often in homes.

Water Heater “DEADBAND”

The question varies, but it usually goes something like this.  Jill asks, “How come some times there seems to be plenty of hot water for both me and Jack to take showers—-and other times there is not?”

Well Jill, it is probably due to “deadband.”  While deadband can be an issue with gas water heaters it is very common with electric water heaters.  You see, the thermostat on your water heater has a range at which it turns itself off and turns itself on (Jill could not help but think about how this might apply to her and Jack in other more interesting ways).  It is this “range” that causes the problem (how true, how true, thinks Jill).  Some water heaters are worse than others (DEFINITELY true, thinks Jill).

Let’s say that Jill starts out with a fully heated water heater at 120 degrees Fahrenheit.  She takes a nice leisurely, relaxing shower and uses most of the hot water—-but not quite enough to get to the low point of the thermostat to make it kick back on to heat more water.  Now Jack comes along an hour later (after the lazy butt sleeps in)—all set to take a nice long hot shower (Jill is thinking cold shower)—-only to run out of hot water as the thermostat finally kicks in to heat more water.

To simplify things, I have drawn a little graph to help visualize the basic concept.

 

Deadband

A visual of how deadband happens

So what is the solution?  There really isn’t one that doesn’t involve keeping the heater at higher than safe, recommended temperatures (120 degrees Fahrenheit).

Keeping the heater at higher temperatures (so that there is more water to dilute) also means that the thermostat’s low range is always going to be higher than what is a satisfactory temperature for a nice long shower.  Installing tanks with more storage capacity is another solution as well.

Perhaps the best solution would be to install what is called a “tempering valve.”  This is a clever device that allows you to have the water heater set at say 130 degrees Fahrenheit and mixes a little cold water into the stream whenever you use hot water so that you don’t ever get more than 120 degree water out of your faucets.  This also protects the heater from the growth of bacteria in the tank that is encouraged or maintained by 120 degree water.

Sounds like Jack will be in plenty of hot water now—no more cold shower treatment.

 

***

Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

 

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The case for further evaluation—along with telling the story.

Home inspectors love to argue about deferring things for “further evaluation” in their reports.

Main disconnect

Main Disconnect

I don’t have much of a problem calling for further evaluation on issues when it is done in the context of getting some defect repaired—where in the report I have described the defect, described the implications of that defect and then recommended who should evaluate and repair the defect—-including when.

This is considerably different than the type of reporting where it merely states:  “Electrical panel appears to be wired improperly—recommend further evaluation by electrician.

I had an interesting electrical panel at an inspection the other day that adds an interesting layer to this discussion.  When inspecting the panel—a sub-panel in a Condo building—I noted that the data plate stated a rating of “125 amps.”  I made a mental note earlier, when inspecting the meter location that the main disconnect was rated at “150 amps” and was expecting to find a panel in the unit rated for at least 150 amps.  For them to be different is actually quite unusual for commercial level wiring.

Electrical panel legend

Electrical panel legend that does not describe the panel it is installed in

I started to notice other inconsistencies within the electrical panel.

According to the data plate there should only be “mini-breakers” at the bottom four slots in the panel.  This is not unusual—I see the rules for the locations of these half-height breakers violated all the time.

Also the cover had a label between the upper breakers that said, “SERVICE DISCONNECT.”

 

Service Disconnect

Improper panel labeling

This labeling is consistent with the panel being a “split bus” type panel—where one of the upper breakers is going to be the disconnect for a block of lower breakers.  Now while there would be no inherent issue with having a service disconnect in the unit as well as at the meters, in this panel there was actually no such breaker controlling a lower block of breakers and even if there was, there would be more than 6 throws to disconnect all the power in the panel.  (For more information on split bus panels see:  SPLIT BUS PANELS)

Interior of panel

Interior of panel described as a split-bus panel but that is not a split-bus panel

So in the end, we have a panel that likely no inspector would be able to provide all the information necessary.  Even determining the “implications” of the installation is complicated by the various possibilities.  Further evaluation and repairs will be necessary by the licensed electrical contractor.  Since the size of the wire run to the panel is adequate for the breaker in the Meter panel, it is entirely possible that this panel is properly wired, that mini-breakers are allowed where they are presently installed, that the panel is rated for the wire size and main disconnect size and that we merely have the wrong cover installed.

Whatever the “truth” is, the cost of repairs could be very different—hence the need for further evaluation and repairs by the licensed electrical contractor.  Telling whatever parts of the story that can be told is important in educating the buyer and enables them to have an intelligent conversation with the seller, the agents and the electrician.

 ***

Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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Bacteria, Mold and Your Kitchen Sink

Why don’t kitchen sinks have overflow holes?

Sinks with overflow holes are not allowed in food preparation areas due to the possibility of providing a place for bacteria and mold to grow around the overflow—-stuff you might not want as a “food seasoning.”

Typical under mount sink

Typical under mount sink

In general, the area around sinks should be kept very well sealed and caulked in order for them to be more easily maintained and kept sanitary.  Wheather the sinks are self rimming sinks, or under-mount type sinks, the connection between the two should be properly caulked.  Of course the molded plastic type sinks where the sink actually becomes a seamless part of the counter top is by far the easiest type to maintain.

Under-mount sinks are very fashionable these days, for a nice “clean” look, yet they can actually be less sanitary than a self-rimming type unless one is very vigilant in cleaning the underside of the counter top where the sink is caulked to the bottom side.  Add to this—-in the case of granite—that the underside of the overhangs is usually “unfinished” and creates an ideal place for mold and bacteria to grow (kind of like the underside of the toilet tank where there is no enamel coating).

In the following picture you can see where the connection of the sink to the counter top has not been caulked, creating a gap where mold and bacteria WILL grow.

bacteria at sink connection

These sink/counter top connections make a good breeding ground for mold and bacteria

 

Except for cheese and miso soup, it is probably a good idea to keep most bacterias and fungal growths out of the kitchen all together.

***

Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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