Basement Stairwell Lighting

Stairs to basements in older homes are often steep and built to less than satisfactory standards.  It is almost as if they were constructed as an after thought, and were fitted in any way they could.  They often have sharp winding turns, insufficient or missing handrails, low clearances to bang your head on, and insufficient or missing side barriers.  Often these stairs were never meant to be used on a daily basis but merely provided access to the furnace etc.

While these stairs might have been somewhat satisfactory when the only thing down there was the furnace and the water heater, as these basements took on more everyday uses such as laundry rooms, family rooms, and additional bedrooms, these stairs represent an increased safety risk.

Improving these stairs so that they are not so steep and are safe by current standards can be very costly and might even require relocation of the stairs and/or changes in the floor structure.  This is usually not done.

One requirement that becomes necessary as the basement is developed into “living space” is for there to be a light switch at the top and the bottom of the stairs.   This is especially important as a safety “upgrade” if the stairs are themselves to remain dangerous—-and least you will be able to see where you are falling and others will be able to locate you to pick up the pieces.

In older homes, a switch only at the top was quite common.  A home I inspected some time ago used to have a switch located at the top of the stairs but it was abandoned in favor of one located half way down the stairs—-sort of “ideally” wrong for whether you were going up or down the stairs.

Light switch location for basement light

Light switch location for the basement light

Stairs are a complicated component of a home and making them as safe as possible is important.  Having adequate side guards, handrails, headroom and lighting are critical to safe use of the stairs.  Some safety features can be improved on even older stairs that cannot be completely brought up to current standards.

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Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

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Barriers/guards—when are they strong enough? When are they safe enough?

A while back I inspected a 3 story condo that had a flat roof that was also a walking surface/deck.  Originally this roof deck had nice guard walls all around the roof.

At some point a previous homeowner decided that a hot tub would be a cool addition to the property.  What better place to sit out under the stars on a nice clear night and contemplate ones navel—or one’s tub mate’s navel.

There were many problems with the installation of this tub—including improper installation of the electrical components.  Other “questions” included the questionable stairs to the deck, missing hand rail and whether the roof structure was adequate to support the massive weight of this tub.

barrier around hot tub

Roof top hot tub

I think the thing that made me the most nervous about this installation was the inadequate guard around the walking surface around the tub deck.  This walking surface was at least 28 feet above the ground.  I am used to crawling around at height, and standing next to this railing made me feel “uneasy” to say the least—-and I hadn’t started partying in the hot tub yet—-and was by all accounts sober.

Barrier railing not tall enough

Barrier railings not tall enough or strong enough

And what about the lattice-work? —–everyone knows how strong lattice is!  Proper repairs may be expensive and it may be cheaper to simply remove the tub and return the space to its original use and design.

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Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

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I have a furnace and water heater I will sell you!

The blue lines I have drawn over the picture below, trace the “high-water lines” from previous flooding of the crawl space.  The interesting thing about this past flooding is that the three “flood lines” that one can see on the furnace indicate that the furnace was not replaced after any of the flooding.  The one blue line on the water heater, which lines up with the middle blue line on the furnace, is consistent with only one flooding of the water heater.

flooded water heater and furnace

High water lines on furnace and water heater

Flooding of the burner components of any gas appliance—-or any appliance not designed to be submerged—-is likely to void the warranty of the unit.

I was so glad the gas was shut off to the building so that I didn’t have to worry about whether they worked or not.  High water lines on gas appliances makes for an easy inspection.  While the HVAC contractor will be called to evaluate the units—replacement is likely the only option.

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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What the heck is a Bollard?

All a bollard is—-is a post installed next to something you don’t want whacked by something, or something you want to exclude access to. 

Out and about, one can see Bollards next to electrical transformers, gas meters and gas pumps at service stations.  You might also find them in the middle of a road, if the road is not for public use.  The bollard can then be removed to allow authorized vehicles to use the road.  Lots of parks and forest service roads have these kinds of bollards.

Bollard

A bollard protecting a water heater

In homes you will find them primarily in the garage to prevent the furnace and/or water heater from getting hit by vehicles—-as in the picture to the left.

So, how does the inspector inspect these bollards?  A really good test would be to get in the car and give the car a good go at it.  Of course this could have disastrous consequences that would also likely result in the inspector never doing another inspection.

There is actually no really good way to test the effectiveness of a bollard because it is a function of scale.  No bollard can stop a 2000 pound car going 20 miles an hour with no breaks.  In that scenario the water heater is going to eat the car.  I am not sure that the bollard could even stand the same scenario at 10 miles per hour; however, I do think it should be able to withstand a moderate karate kick from a 65 year-old.

Mechanical bolting of bollards

Mechanical bolting of bollards is often inadequate

The one in the picture did not.  One good kick pulled the bolts right out of the concrete.

Mechanical type bolts should never be used to resist “pull-out” type forces.  Epoxy type bolts should be used for this type of installation.  Epoxy bolting will break the floor before it pulls out the bolts.  Some jurisdictions don’t allow bolts but require that the post be imbedded in concrete—-steel pipes filled with concrete.  The nice thing about bolting them is that they can be removed to make replacement of whatever they are protecting easier.

A bollard should not just give the “appearance” of protection—-it must actually perform as intended—-to protect against moderate forces applied to it.

The best solution of all of course is to stay sober, make sure your breaks work and keep the keys away from 6.5 year-olds

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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What temperature should my refrigerator be?

There was a time when I thought it would be a good idea to check the temperature of refrigerators and freezers for my buyers in the course of the home inspection.  I no longer do this due to too many false readings that are common with laser thermometers.  Different surfaces will read differently.  Now I simply recommend that the user of the refrigerator maintain proper temperatures and recommend that they obtain refrigerator/freezer thermometers that can be placed inside the units.

For food safety it is recommended that refrigerators be kept at approximately 38 degrees Fahrenheit and that freezers be kept at around 0 degrees Fahrenheit.

Refrigerator temperature

Refrigerator temperature of 38 degrees F

 

Freezer temperature

Freezer temperature of 10 degrees F

I frequently find temperatures much warmer than these recommended temperatures.  Freezers are less often inadequate because people can judge temperature by how hard the ice-cream is.  If the ice-cream digs out without breaking the spoon it is probably too warm.

Some of the newer refrigerators come with digital read-outs that keep track of the freezer and refrigerator temperatures—-even these read-outs should be checked periodically with an actual thermometer.

OK—-now go and check the temperatures of your refrigerator and Freezer.

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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