Moss Code—can you read the signs?

The other day I did a post about a roof that wastoast.”

Today’s “toast” goes to the deck at the same home.

Just like the garage roof the deck structure goes way beyond being “unsafe” and is closer to “compost.”

It is interesting to note that it was never built to be safe even when it was brand new (ledger not bolted, ledger not flashed, undersized joists and beams, no joist hangers, improper surface, and untreated materials).  Some of these things contributed to its early demise.  There was extensive rot in most structural components and the plywood deck surface was badly rotten and covered with moss.  It was pretty obvious that this deck had been unsafe for a long time and yet there were no barriers from the house preventing anyone from walking out onto it.  In fact, I walked on it—but VERY cautiously and only in some areas. Getting to the deck from the ground was made “challenging” by the fact that the stairs had completely rotted away, so perhaps the people most at risk were the people living in the home—the ones likely to have access to the deck.

 

badly rotted deck suppor post

Badly rotted deck support post

 

Moss covered deck

Moss covered deck

 

Badly rotted deck stairs

Badly rotted deck stairs

Anyone walking out on this deck in the dark would certainly have rotten luck.

 

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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I didn’t walk this roof—but one must ask, “Is this really a roof?”

While generally I walk most roofs at an inspection, a while back I had flat roof on a garage/carport that I would not walk on.

They just don’t get much worse than this prior to being bulldozed.  I would say that this roof is a good 20 to 30 years past its expected life and no longer qualifies as a real roof.

Flat roof past its expected life

Flat roof past its expected life

Here is an interior shot.

holes in roof

Any time you can see through the roof.........

Perhaps the biggest concern with structures like this is when there are kids around that might play in or around them.  This was a house that was a short sale—-so it is not likely that the bank is going to do anything about this safety issue.

If the roof collapsed on a bunch of kids using this as a “hideout” would the bank be liable or would the kids (the ones that didn’t get killed) get arrested for trespassing?

 

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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When the wind blows……..

Large trees on a property can pose a very real threat to a home—–whether it is your home or the neighbor’s home.  They can represent serious liability for the homeowner—for both property damage and personal injury.

Badly damaged tree

Badly damaged tree leaving it vulnerable to wind damage

Inspectors are usually not licensed arborists, but it is a good idea for inspectors to inform their buyers of the “potential” danger of trees on the property, whether it is to the home they are looking at buying or to neighboring homes.  Trees with decay, trees that have suffered wind damage, trees that are leaning precariously, or trees that are too close to the home should obviously be reported for either removal or evaluation by a licensed arborist.  Of course properly maintaining trees is important as well.

While adding great beauty to a property, people need to be aware of potential problems all this beauty can pose.  Trees actually falling on homes are rarer than the more continual damage they represent from falling limbs and covering roofs with vegetative debris on a yearly basis—-including filling up gutters and downspouts.  Trees too close to the home also pose a risk to foundations from the tree’s roots.

This pretty much covers issues with trees on the property the buyer is looking at.  Here is another, more complicated issue: trees on the neighbor’s property that are in danger of falling onto the buyer’s property.  Can you imagine how difficult it might be to get that neighbor to deal with taking down a tree?  Take a look at the tree in this picture to the left.

It doesn’t take an arborist to see that this tree, already severely weakened where one section of the tree has fallen away, is in danger of falling against the home.  Even though this tree is on the neighbor’s property, getting it taken care of can get complicated if you don’t have a willing neighbor—-or the property is in foreclosure.  Often the only practical, timely, solution would be for the property buyer to pay to have the tree taken down.  In the City of Seattle it can cost several thousand dollars to take a tree like this down professionally.  You certainly would not want it to be taken down unprofessionally.

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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“Bootleg ground” or “false-ground” on 3-prong receptacles.

All inspector tools have their limitations.

Sometimes inspectors must rely on several different tools to provide the best information about a particular condition.  Today I want to talk about the limitations of one very common tool that inspectors “rely” on—-and why perhaps they should not.  The tool is the $9.99 (give or take), three-bulb, receptacle tester.

With this tester the wiring seems OK

With this tester the wiring seems OK

If the inspector relies only on this tool for their evaluation of the electrical receptacles (sometimes mistakenly referred to as “outlets”) in the home, they will not likely find some defects.  One such defect is the “False Ground” or commonly called, “Bootleg Ground.”

Unlike any of Bob Dylan’s Bootleg albums—this one can cause you harm.

At a recent inspection, the home had all “three-prong” type receptacles.   Some were properly wired while many others had ‘False Grounds.”  One is most likely to find false grounds in older two-wire circuits—-where there is no ground wire.

“Handy” homeowners will sometimes tackle replacement of these receptacles.  The homeowner sees the nice green grounding screw and thinks something has to be connected to it.  They further surmises that since the ground wires and neutral wires are all connected together in the main service panel anyway—-why not just connect the neutral wire to the ground-screw and call it good.  Surely if they are connected together in the panel they must do the same job.  (of course they for sure do not do the same job and they are connected together in the main panel for an entirely different reason.)  Sure enough the receptacle tests as “Correct” with their handy-dandy three-bulb tester—adding to their confidence that they must have wired it correctly.  (This “repair” of course, gets rid of the old “deal-killer” two-prong receptacles as well.)

IT DOES NOT HOWEVER PROVIDE “ACTUAL” GROUNDING OF THE RECEPTACLE.  If actual grounding is important to the device that is plugged into the receptacle, “actual” grounding would not be there. Grounding provides a path to ground for current if it becomes necessary.  If you look closely at the following picture you can see that there is a piece of wire connecting the  white neutral screw location to the green ground screw location.

False Ground or "Bootleg Ground"

False Ground or "Bootleg Ground"

So to find this defect (and other defects that the $9.99 tester can’t find) the Inspector needs the $299.99 (give or take) tester in their bag of tricks.

Boot leg grounds

The expensive tester tells us that we have a false ground---"bootleg ground"

There are a couple of defects that this expensive tester can only “indicate” by a “blank” or “flashing” screen.  But if we have used our $19.99 (give or take) Voltage Indicator we know there is “voltage” there—-so even though the screen is blank, we know there is “something” wrong .  At that point we might want to take out our old fashioned two cable circuit tester to figure things out.

Voltage detector

Simple voltage detector

The $9.99 tester will also tell us these “blank-screen” defects:  a “disconnected neutral” or the “hot connected to the ground wire terminal.”

So, I think you can see that relying on just one piece of electrical testing equipment could result in not telling the whole story about electrical issues within the home—and possibly even telling the wrong information about electrical issues within the home.

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

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Salt, metal, & electrical components—often not a good combination.

Anyone that has ever lived in the New England knows what salt can do to steel.  Rusted out cars are common.  I remember when I first moved to Seattle how amazed I was to see every car I have ever owned in everyday use—-with no rust!

Some of them perhaps badly beat up due to use and abuse—-but no rust.

In 1971 I bought a brand new Chevy pickup truck—even paid for the fancy “protective undercoating.”  By 1976, I could see the road “going by” in the foot wells below me.  The arguments for salt over sand (except where it is just too dang cold for salt to work) are compelling.  If you want to find out about some of the issues about Salted and Sanded roads you can check out: Breaking the Ice – Impacts of Road Salt.

Seattle doesn’t have so much of a problem with this because we don’t get that much snow and frozen road surfaces.  Houses located near the water sometimes do have a problem with wind driven salt water though.  The exposed metal components on these homes often are pitted and corroded from the salt water.  One of the worst instances of this effect was an electrical meter that had literally been destroyed by salt water.

Badly corroded electrical service meter base

Badly corroded electrical service meter base

Birds had decided that it would make a good bird house—-free of “charge?” Pun intended—but lets hope so—-at least the meter seal was still in place.

Exposed electrical connections

Exposed electrical connections

Of course these “energized” components were all within easy reach of curious children.

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Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

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