In one ear and out the other—where do the drains drain to?

As a home inspector, the basic rule is:  “document, document, document.”  Even when something seems unimportant or “ancient history” it is important to all parties involved in the transaction to document these past conditions to provide a clear picture of the home.

This is not so much to “project” what is coming down the road but to “document” what has happened so that if it happens again there was at least some warning.

There is just no way around it—some areas may need to be monitored.

Perhaps the basement no longer leaks but the staining all around the paneling indicates that at some point it did.  Perhaps new perimeter drains have been installed—-which might be documented as well—-and flooding is no longer likely.  The staining still should be noted—it may be seasonal in nature—or only happen under very specific conditions.

The following story is an example of this type of documenting.

In the early fall I inspected a home and noted in the crawl space that a new interior drainage system had been installed (which was noted in the report).  Also, at several points around the foundation, there were indications of past moisture intrusion—-as can be seen in the “muddy tan” discolorations in this picture (which was noted in the report).  The rusting form ties visible in the photo on top of the footing are further indications that this area has been wet—also documented in the report.

Looks dry to me

Staining is indicative of past leaking

Whether this happened during construction, after construction, or is ongoing or seasonal is difficult to determine at just one visit to the home.

The hole through the foundation is what we call a gravity drain.  Builders will sometimes install these drains so that prior to building the home the foundation does not become a swimming pool.  These gravity drains can admit lots of water to the crawl space if the exterior ground water is not properly drained away.  In this case a feeble attempt at making a place for any incoming water to go has been installed and connected to newer interior drainage that runs to a sump pump on the other side of the crawl space.

There was a rotted support post, due to past flooding, that needed to be replaced, so I was called back to check the repairs about a month later—-after nearly two weeks of constant rain.  Here is a picture of that same area taken at the time of the re-inspection.

Wet during times of rain

Wet during times of rain

While you can see that the footing is now all wet, you can’t tell from the photo that there is a little river running under the pipe and into the crawl space—-enough water to pretty much require that the poor little sump pump run continuously.

A very curious condition was causing this to happen.  Apparently this gravity drain was tied to the footing drain on the other side of the foundation.  This footing drains run around the home to where it runs out into the back yard “somewhere.”  Well apparently, the drain in the back yard was somehow blocked.  This was evidenced by the fact that whenever the sump pump turned on, water came up out of the ground like a little geyser and flowed on the surface into the back yard.  The sump drain terminated in the underground footing drain and because the drain was not draining to the back yard, the sump water had no place to go except to back up around the perimeter drain around the home.  It was then flowing back through the foundation and into the crawl space.  Round and round she goes, where she stops, nobody knows…

This is a good example of how some defects are just not going to be found during a Standard Home Inspection but by documenting “everything” we can sometimes get hints of issues to come.  In this case the termination of the footing drain had to be repaired to eliminate recycling the ground water back into the crawl space.

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Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

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Most home defects are not “Rocket Science”

Some people think my job is difficult—like rocket science.

Hidden tigers

Hidden tigers

I wish my job was Rocket Science—-but for the most part it isn’t.

Home inspectors need good observation skills.  Some would argue that teaching that part of the job to wannabe inspectors is the difficult part—-if it is possible at all.  With enough time and commitment one can learn everything one needs to know, and can become very good at figuring out things, but the ability to “SEE” is more difficult to learn and teach.

When things are not right, the things that are “not right” must jump at the inspector like a hungry tiger—almost as if the defect is finding the inspector as opposed to the other way around.

Beginning inspectors are so intent on finding defects that they often look right past things that would otherwise have them for lunch if those things hadn’t already eaten the previous inspector.

That said—-some things jump out of the shadows more easily than others.

Take this picture of an improperly terminated plumbing vent pipe for example—-if there is anything I can’t stand it is obviousness (to loosely quote Mickey Rourke in “Barfly.”

Missing pipe flashing

Missing pipe flashing and vent pipe not long enough

Perhaps the plumber didn’t get paid.

Perhaps someone ran out of weekends.

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Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

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How many clamps does it take to stop a leak? Too many are never enough.

Galvanized drain pipes installed prior to the mid 50’s are likely to be at the end of their life.  For all intents and purposes this is the fast majority of galvanized piping.  Inspectors will use these general guidelines when he or she finds them in your dream

Asbestos wrap insulation

The Real Stuff

house, to let you know that you should be prepared for replacement of the pipes—-even if they seem to be draining OK at the time of inspection.

Galvanized drain pipes usually do not spontaneously start leaking.  In fact, failure happens pretty much continuously over the life of the pipe, gradually as the pipes deteriorate on the inside.  Eventually small pin-holes start to develop.  These tiny leaks will seal themselves with rust until they corrode through again and then start to leak again.  Eventually the leaks can’t seal themselves any longer and the pipe leaks all the time.

It is common to see these holes patched with duct tape, electrical tape, tar and banding clamps.  I have sometimes seen repairs that would cost more than replacement of the pipe—-well except that the plumber would have to be paid for his time.  So the homeowner looks at the leak, and will spend 40 bucks or 10 bucks and figure out a way to beat a little more life out of the pipes.

The pipes pictured below drained just fine at the time of inspection—–and were not even leaking—-and they are certainly WAY past the end of their expected life.  The inspector would be remiss to not recommend replacement NOW.

Pipe clamp patch

Pipe coupling patch

 

Numerous pipe couplings used as patches

Numerous pipe couplings used as patches

For arguments sake, let’s just say you are a “Pipe-Beater,” and you really need to get a little more life out of the drain before you call in the plumber—-and then have to fork over the big bucks.  The stainless steel no-hub couplings that one can see in the lower picture cost about $4.00 each, of which there are four—-for a total of $16.00.  To replace that same section of damaged pipe with new plastic pipe would have required about $1.00 worth of pipe and two connectors for a total of $9.00—-assuming you didn’t have to buy a hack-saw.

Those of you that read my blog religiously will recognize the Asbestos wrapped pipes below the leak—-the subject of the post previous to this one.

Will the plumber be willing to work around the stuff?  Good question.

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Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspector in Seattle

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Enamel Steel tubs are inexpensive because they are cheap

As is indicated by the “bluish” highlighted areas in the picture, we can see the typical areas of an enamel steel type tub that are prone to water intrusion into the wall.  Moisture is frequently found by moisture meter in these areas.

Enamel Steel Tubs

Enamel Steel Tub

On a recent new construction inspection I found a great example that shows why this is so.

Steel tubs like this one typically have a flange that runs up behind the wall covering to reduce the chance of water finding its way into the wall.  The problem with this flange is that it does not run all the way to the edge of the tub or down the side.  In this next picture one can see the flange where it stops at the black opening that is a hole all the way through.  Really this opening should be properly caulked and sealed previous to installation of the finish surface to reduce the risk of water penetrating this area.  There are filler pieces that should be installed at the inside corners previous to installing the wall covering. Then of course the gap should be properly caulked after the finish wall surface is installed—assuming it is a single piece type covering like the one shown.  If it is a tile enclosure, then of course the joint would simply be grouted and the gap in the tub properly caulked and flashed behind the tile.

It is very difficult to seal this connection satisfactorily and part of what makes these tubs “cheap.”  They are of course quite expensive in the long term.

 

Gap at corner of steel tub

Gap at corner of steel tub

The way these tubs are constructed speaks to the importance of keeping grout and caulk in good condition.

Similar indications of moisture are also very common at the inside corners of the tub because this flange does not wrap around the corner but instead ends just before the corner—-just like in the picture at the front of the tub.  This creates an ideal place for moisture to find its way into the wall at the corners due to improper caulking of the corner prior to installation of the wall surface and poor caulking at the wall surface connection with the tub.

Doesn’t it make you wonder why they would build the tub this way? 

Apparently it has to do with the way these steel tubs are manufactured and enameled that make it very difficult to do a proper flange all the way around the tub like a plastic tub would have—-and part of what makes this type of tub a “cheap” choice in tubs.

This is why inspectors are so adamant about keeping these areas well sealed/caulked/grouted.  Of course if the work behind the surface has not been done properly, eventually water will find its way into these areas.

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Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

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Home Inspectors do not fix things!

It is very common for bathroom sinks to have problems with the pop-up stoppers.

Sometimes the mechanism under the sink is damaged, disconnected or just plain missing.  Other times the lift arm isn’t properly connected to the stopper itself.  Whatever the problem, since photographs are my only means of taking notes on an inspection, a reminder picture of a problem with a pop-up stopper might look something like the following picture.

Sink stopper handle would not lift up

Sink stopper handle would not lift up

Such a picture is usually enough to jog my memory and even tell me which bathroom the problem was in.  Sometimes I photo the problem under the sink as well.  When this one wouldn’t pull up and properly close the drain I sort of expected one of the usual scenarios under the sink.

I wasn’t quite prepared for the work of the last painters of the room.

Pretty clear why the stopper handle would not lift up

Pretty clear why the stopper handle would not lift up

The stopper lift-arm had been taped to the drain pipe—-it was easier to fix than write up.

But I at least got a blog post out of it—pictures and all.

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Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

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