Doesn’t the Electrical Service Panel HAVE to have a Main Disconnect Breaker?”

Main Breaker
The simple answer to this question is, “No—Probably not.”
Because most electrical service panels are NOT installed by homeowners or “Uncle Harry,” it is actually pretty rare to find a main panel without a main disconnect. There are a couple of ways where it might “appear” to be missing—but is in fact there after all. My goal is to keep this post simple enough that most readers can understand what I am talking about.
Real estate agents and home owners need to understand the basic principles so that when the inspector calls for replacement of what appears to be a perfectly good panel, they can understand why.
The first point I will make is that ALL electrical services to the home MUST have a means of shutting off all the power.
Being able to shut off all of the power is usually achieved by a Main Disconnect Breaker in the electrical service panel—and should be labeled as such. (I am not going to talk about fuses in this post). Where it gets a little confusing is when that main disconnect breaker is in a different location from the panel in the home—like outside the home at the electric meter (as in mobile homes, townhouses, condos and other instances). In these instances the panel in the home is not the electrical service equipment but is instead called a sub-panel. This type of panel doesn’t “require” a main breaker unless it is in a detached structure. Of course it does no harm to have one and one is often installed for convenience.
The following picture is of a pretty close to correctly wired sub-panel. As a Seattle Home Inspector I love finding panels this nicely wired. This type of panel will not usually have a main disconnect—it will be located at the electrical service equipment—-typically where the meters are located.

Nicely Wired Sub-Panel
There is another type of panel that looks, at first glance, like it might be missing a main breaker. This type of panel is configured such that it takes a maximum of 6 throws to shut all the power off.
This type of Service Panel is called a Split-Bus Panel.
The following picture is of a typical split bus panel with its dead-front cover in place. Notice it says, “SERVICE DISCONNECTS” in the center between the upper breakers?

Split Bus Electrical Panel
This means that when all those top breakers are turned off—all power to the breakers in the panel will be off—including the lower breakers.
The next picture is of a split bus panel with the cover off—notice how much it looks like the sub-panel picture above (well except for neatness)?

Split Bus Electrical Service Panel
What is different about the panels can be visualized by by the following picture with descriptive overlays.

Split Bus Electrical Service Panel
The blue dotted lines are where the power coming into the panel attach to the bus bars. Note that the top six double pole breaker spaces are outlined with blue dotted lines and are numbered 1 through 6. Note how the wires from breaker #2 travel down behind the six spaces and attach (trust me) to the bars for the bottom breakers highlighted in red. Notice also that some of the double pole breakers in the area labeled “Service Disconnects” have been changed to single pole breakers—violating the 6 throw rule. Violations of this type are common with these panels as more circuits are desired and there just isn’t room in the panel for any more.
Here is another panel with only three double pole breakers in the top six spaces but one of them has blue wires that run to the bus bars for the lower circuits.

Split Bus Electrical Service Panel
In this case it only takes three throws to shut off all the power in the panel—still well under the 6 throw rule.
These panels were common into the early 70′s and I still find them very often. Most panel manufacturers made such panels—-and in many different versions. The code allows for this type of panel as long as all the power can be shut-off in 6 throws or less—known as the “6-Throw Rule.” Inspectors and homeowners sometimes mistake these split-bus panels for sub-panels and incorrectly call for repairs to the way they are wired—or wonder where the main breaker is. I don’t want to go into the differences between how service panels are wired differently from sub-panels, but just understand that they are wired VERY differently and it important for the home inspector to know these differences.
To recap:
In a typical split bus panel found in a residence there will be provision for “6″ double pole breakers (or less)—one of which is the disconnect for all the breakers located below the 6 double pole breaker locations. Wires will run from that one breaker and be connected directly to the bus bars for the other section of breakers. (Bus bars are the energized metal bars that the circuit breakers connect to.)
These panels are often crowded and no longer have ample space to accommodate modern wiring requirements. Most of the time I find myself recommending to my buyers that they upgrade these panels. Often the service size itself is adequate for the home—the panel simply lacks the space to add new circuits. Replacing just the panel is almost always going to be cheaper than a whole new service to the home.
Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector
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Very helpful post. I’m curious, is it easier to add a sub panel underneath a split bus panel and rewire the house to that or just replace the old panel entirely? I am updating a house from the 40′s that appears to have had a few piecemeal updates here and there but nothing seems to have been done “right”. Lots of electrical tape, few proper junctions and willy-nilly outlets piggybacked to odd lines throughout the house.
I am a student and cannot afford to hire an electrician. Updating this old house will be my part-time job over the next few years, and I hope to make a small profit from its sell.
Well of course one could add a sub-panel but in the end you will still have the old main panel with no main disconnect. Even with a new panel for the same size service you can generally get a panel with a main breaker that has more available spaces for circuits than the current split-bus has. I am assuming all work is being done under permits, so having to pull the meter to replace the whole panel should not be an issue.
i have an old house that has no service disconnects just a meter base and a split bus pannel inside. theere is no main disconnect anywhere. the distribution pannel is inside. i want to upgtrade the dis pannel. do i have to add a pannel with disconnects or will the individual circuit breakers suffice
Carlos, I am not sure why you would want a nice new panel and not want a main disconnect? Am I reading you correctly? As far as I know, you have to have a single main disconnect in modern installations.
Great Blog! My father and I were both convinced that my service panel was missing the main breaker, but I see that I have a Split Buss panel thanks to your blog. I purchased a home in MI without an inspection or seeing it in person. I inherited a box that is overlystuffed and even had wires connected directly into the front with the cover off! In the state of MI they require an electrical safety inspection on any home that has the electricity off for more than a year (mine has been off for 3 now). So I am preparing myself to clean up some of the obvious no, no’s and have the inspection. Hopefully, my nothern Mi inspector will be as knowledgeable and helpful as you seem to be. Keep up the good work! Wish you were in MI!
Dennis, glad to be of help—good luck with your MI inspector—I have heard about these inspections in MI.
Great post! I was convinced my daughter’s “new” (1950′s) old house was missing the main breaker but now understand much better what’s going on with the split bus panel. One question though. What overcurrent device protects the incoming wiring from the meter to the panel? Our 1950′s house has 120/240 volt #4 AWG copper TW which I think is good for only 60 Amps. When I add up the breakers on the first half of the split it comes out to more than 60. I have not found any main breaker upstream of the panel but am wondering if there are fuses or something hidden in the sealed meter enclosure. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Louis, regardless of whether there is a main breaker in the panel or a split-bus means of disconnecting the power there is no protection of the wire between the meter and the panel and why it has to be in conduit and a very short distance between the two. Also adding up the amperage of breakers is not really indicative of anything except as indicated by the data plate. #4AWG copper is good for 100amps typically. Have the panel evaluated by an electrician if you have concerns about it.
Dear Louis,
I’m rewiring a house to make it more EMF friendly
ie no EMF’s.
It was suggested to use split bus to separate the loads. Emf high loads and resistive loads.
A few details please!
I’m suffering from emf sensitivity.
Ann, I know of no scientific evidence to support that EMF’s are a problem related to residential wiring. A Split Bus panel is a type of panel and would likely not make a difference in any electrical conditions related to EMF’s that I am aware of. “Anecdotal” information can sometimes seem convincing but generally just confuses the issue.