A case of better late than never!

A case of, “Let’s embarrass the home inspector!”

Some stories are worth telling even if it does have to come at one’s own expense.

Years ago, we remodeled our kitchen.  In the process, the range was relocated to the other side of the kitchen.  This meant that the old vent pipe from the range hood had to be abandoned.  The pipe was disconnected at the ceiling in a space above the stairs behind where the hood used to be.

kitchenbypass1

kitchenbypass2

I stuffed the pipe with insulation (or at least I would like to assume I did) figuring that the pipe and roof cap would get removed when the roof was replaced.

At some point I noticed there was a lot of dust collecting around the edges of the cabinet door to this space above the stairs.

kitchenbypass3

I knew what the dust meant and more or less ignored it figuring the vent was still functioning a bit–air moving through the insulation.

In the context of the recent window replacement project, I had some work to do on the roof and decided that I would get rid of the old vent cap and pipe in the process.

kitchenbypass4

When I pulled off the roof cap and looked down the pipe I was surprised to see—nothing!  No insulation in the pipe.  This pipe had been acting like a chimney since the kitchen was remodeled.   Aaaarrrrgggghhhh!

It is by-passes like this that can amount to higher energy costs and work against the huge amounts of insulation that had been added to the attic space.  It is really no different than leaving the damper open on your fireplace.  The dust in the screen of the old cap is testament to how it has been cleaning the air as I attempted to heat up all outdoors.

kitchenbypass5

You too can look for the signs of these types of air by-passes, and eliminate them to improve the energy efficiency and comfort of your home.  Here is a partial list of indicators.  Look for dust and discoloration like that in the picture above, around:entryway doors, windows, fireplace screens, attic access hatches, crawl space hatches, ceiling light fixtures, light switches, receptacles, along baseboards, along the run of stairs, around the edges of floor registers, skylights, or anywhere else where air sealing has not been complete.

I guess it is a case of better late than never.

By Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

If you enjoyed this post, and would like to get notices of new posts to my blog, please subscribe via email in the little box to the right. I promise NO spamming of your email! 🙂

Why do I have SO MUCH condensation on my windows!?

This is a great time of year to talk about indoor moisture.

Because we keep our houses more closed up in the winter (unless you live in an area that needs a lot of air conditioning and you keep the house closed up year round) moisture can build up in the warm indoor air. Warm air can hold moisture until it reaches saturation and then it will start to give up that moisture to the cooler surfaces around the home.

Take for example this metal screw that attaches the front entryway door pull handle to the face of the  door.  The staining and moisture is because there is way too much moisture in air at the interior of the home and it is condensing on the cooler metal.  It is bad enough that water runs down and stains the door.

doorstains

While a little fogging of windows is normal during incidental “steamy moments” like when you do the dishes (does anyone besides me really do dishes by hand?).  If you have condensation on your windows to the point that it starts to run down the glass–YOU HAVE A MOISTURE PROBLEM!

Your windows certainly should NEVER look like the one in this picture–all that moisture and mold is in the living space–not between the panes of glass.

moisture-on-windows

You don’t really have to wonder if you have a moisture problem when your windows look like this–you do have a moisture problem. The next thing will be figuring out why and then doing something about it.

There can be SO many causes of excess moisture in a home that it will not be the purpose of this post to go into great detail about the many causes. This post instead will be about what you can try before you call in the big guns to figure out what has gone wrong with your home.

In the majority of cases it is not the house that is the problem at all–it is the occupants of the home and the fact they do not know how to properly operate the home. Some people’s lifestyles are more problematic than others. If you diligently do the things I suggest and the problem does not go away–then you will likely have to consider other causes that are more related to problems with the house itself.

1. Open curtains and blinds at least a little bit every day. While it may waste a little energy, you don’t want the air that gets trapped behind the curtains to give up its moisture to the cold glass. Adequate circulation of air will prevent this. Condensation is especially problematic in bedrooms that people tend to keep cooler and tend to keep curtains drawn tighter for longer periods of time. Anyone that has slept in a tent in the cold is aware of how much moisture our bodies give off when we are sleeping.

Keeping the entire interior of the home at close to the same temperature is recommended as rooms left unheated will collect the moisture out of the surrounding room’s warm air like a magnet.  Because it cannot hold the moisture, it will store it on the windows and the cold walls behind all the storage boxes in the room. For example if you have block-out blinds or Venetian type blinds–leave them raised an inch or two to allow for air flow to the glass.

Take a look at these two pictures.  Same room, same humidity and temperature levels.  The first one is the results of condensation with the blinds closed, the second one with the blinds open.

glass-condensation2

glass-condensation1

While there is still a little bit of condensation of the glass, consistent with moisture levels being too high, leaving the blinds open prevents a worse build-up of moisture.

2. ALWAYS, run the bathroom exhaust fan for at least an hour after every shower. If you have a way of warming the bathroom into the upper 70’s for a few minutes prior to taking a shower, the warmer air will hold more of the moisture from showering and can then more easily be exhausted during and after showering. If you have condensation running down your mirror or the bathroom window after showering, you are not using your bathroom properly. And another thing–get rid of those dang water saver shower heads that atomize the water making the water easier to disperse into the air. There are other types of water saver shower heads.

3. ALWAYS, use the kitchen range hood while cooking and for a few minutes after cooking. Always use the kitchen fan when the dishwasher is running or even while you are washing dishes by hand.

4. No Grow-ops in the house—legal or otherwise. A few house plants will not cause a problem if all other things in the home, including the inhabitants, are behaving properly.

5. Make sure the laundry exhaust fan is used while doing the laundry. If you don’t have a laundry fan–consider having one added.  Modern construction would require one. Another thing about the laundry is that if the exhaust duct is restricted enough to increase drying time, more dryer moisture will find its way into the home. Making sure that the dryer is behaving properly is important in maintaining proper moisture levels in the home.

6.  Don’t hang laundry to dry indoors.

7. Make sure that all exhaust fans are functional–just because they turn on and make noise does not mean they are doing the job they are there to do. A simple test is to cover the entire grill with tissue and see if the fan uniformly holds the tissue in place. Make sure you do this test with any doors to the room closed. Doors with inadequate clearances for air to move into the room as the air is exhausted may render the fan non-functional. Improving clearances may be necessary. Another test is to put the tissue on the floor near the bottom of the closed door and then turn on the fan–the tissue should be forcefully sucked into the room away from bottom of the door.  Really tight homes may want to think about whether the whole house has adequate means of bringing fresh air into the home when exhaust fans are operated.  All of this can be further complicated by not having direct vent gas appliances.

8. If you are going to cook and bathe in your home it is imperative that you maintain an indoor air temperature above 65 degrees F. I know we all have energy consumption considerations but if you keep the home at 64 degrees (or areas of your home at 50 degrees) and save $200.00 a year in heating costs and cause $2000.00 in water damage you have not accomplished much in terms of saving money. Health costs may also be affected as keeping homes cooler may result in poor indoor air quality conditions.  This cost/benefit ratio is even worse if we are talking about keeping isolated portions of the home cooler. Just heat your home–it will reward you for it.

So, try these things–if you still have nasty looking windows like in the picture above–call a qualified home inspector or indoor environment specialist to figure out what is going on.

By Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

If you enjoyed this post, and would like to get notices of new posts to my blog, please subscribe via email in the little box to the right. I promise NO spamming of your email! 🙂

Here’s mud in your eye!

I have slung more drywall mud in my life than I care to think about. My messed-up shoulders will attest to that. I am quite sure that the amount of the goop I have spread around with a trowel is in the thousands if not tens of thousands of gallons. I have spent many hours clunking around on stilts. In fact, I was on stilts when the wave of the 2001 Nisqually earthquake moved through the house I was working on. When I got out of the house the telephone poles and wires were still waving. I had gotten pretty comfortable going up and down stairs on stilts.

One of the things you learn pretty quickly about drywall mud is that it takes forever to dry if it is installed too thick–especially if the weather is humid. Building up successive thin layers creates a much better job than trying to push-the-river with too much material.

Generally when you needed to do a heavy fill you would mix up some of the stuff with a quicker set time. Silverset was one of my favorite types because it sanded pretty easily when dry–unlike some of the other brands that set up more like concrete. In the early days of my drywalling career there was only stuff that set up so hard you could barely sand it.

After discovering the light-weight products, we used to call “mud-lite,” life became much easier. There was Silverset 20, Silverset 40 and Silverset 90. The numbers referred to the number of minutes you had to work with the material before it solidified in your bucket–and several times I got to experience the reality of these numbers.

Everyone remembers fooling around with Plaster of Paris–well these fast setting joint compounds are a bit like that–just not nearly as hard when set.

I had a flash back at an inspection and my shoulder understandably started to hurt.

mud-light

Mud Light

Someone could have benefited from knowing about Silverset 90–and a little bit better understanding of electricity might have been advisable as well.

Perhaps this was just their version of “mud-light.”

By Charles Buell, Real Estate Inspections in Seattle

If you enjoyed this post, and would like to get notices of new posts to my blog, please subscribe via email in the little box to the right. I promise NO spamming of your email! 🙂